However, the Blake construction does have its drawbacks when it comes to sturdiness. Blake ConstructionĪ cross section of a Blake stitched shoe via Pinterest.Ĭonsidered the original, mechanized method of shoemaking, Blake has a very loyal following in Italy, favored by traditional shoemakers for its elegant, slim silhouette, as well as for its flexibility, due to there being no welt. We’d also like to thank Nghia Hoang of the Vietnam Raw Denim Facebook group for the use of his educational illustrations.
The following explain the history and methods behind the most common of these techniques. Most higher end shoemakers, however, use more complicated techniques that allow a cobbler to replace the soles and have (at least the bottom part of) the shoes good as new. The soles of most shoes these days are simply glued in place, which makes it nearly impossible to swap in a new one without significantly damaging the upper. The way the sole is attached often determines whether it can be replaced and subsequently if the shoe is still wearable. Because the sole is the part of the shoe that makes contact with the ground, it’s usually what wears out first. The method for how the sole of the shoe is attached to the upper is the crux of what we’re talking about today. Bottoming – Sole is attached to upper ( this step will largely determine quality, performance and thus the price of the finished shoe ).Lasting – Upper shaped to last and insole.Insoling – Attach insole to bottom of last.
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